Struggling to produce symmetrical vessels? Explore coiling! This method uses rolled lengths of malleable earth to construct forms, allowing for larger, less uniform projects than wheel throwing. For example, create a towering garden planter by layering coils, smoothing them together, and adding textured surfaces with simple tools like forks or wooden sticks. Start with a base diameter approximately 25% larger than the desired finished diameter to account for shrinkage during firing.
Looking for faster results? Slab construction offers immediate structural possibilities. Roll out sheets of workable material to a uniform thickness (ideally between 0.6cm and 1.2cm for structural integrity). Then, cut and assemble these planar sections into geometric containers or sculptural forms. Pro Tip: Score and slip all joining surfaces thoroughly to prevent cracking during drying and firing. Consider using a miter cut for clean, strong corners.
Want to add unique surface decoration without glazing? Experiment with Mishima, an ancient Korean inlay method. Carve designs into the leather-hard surface of your form, then fill these recesses with contrasting slips (colored watery mud). Once dry, carefully scrape away the excess slip to reveal the inlaid pattern. This works particularly well with organic motifs inspired by nature. For a durable finish, ensure the slip’s shrinkage rate matches the base material.
Coil Construction: Fashioning Towering Vessels
To prevent slumping during coil construction of tall vases, allow each coil layer to stiffen to a leather-hard state before adding the next. This provides a strong foundation.
For seamless joins, score both the existing wall surface and the fresh coil thoroughly with a serrated rib or needle tool. Apply slip (a mixture of refined earth and water) liberally to both surfaces before pressing the coil firmly into place. Smooth the join immediately.
Use coils of consistent diameter for uniform wall thickness. A coil maker tool ensures this consistency. Consider extruding coils directly onto the vase for speed.
Rotate the vase regularly as you add coils. This ensures even weight distribution and prevents warping. Use a banding wheel for effortless rotation.
To achieve a specific shape, gently manipulate the angle at which you attach each coil. Angling coils outward creates a wider profile; angling inward narrows the form.
Control moisture levels by covering the vase with plastic sheeting between working sessions. Uneven drying can lead to cracks. Slowly remove the sheeting during the final stages of drying.
Employ internal supports, such as crumpled newspaper or inflatable bladders, during the initial stages to maintain the vase’s form. Remove these supports once the structure can support itself.
After bisque firing, apply glaze in thin, even coats to avoid runs on vertical surfaces. Multiple thin coats are preferable to one thick application.
Burnishing the surface after coil application can create a smooth, refined finish. Use a smooth stone or spoon to compress the earth particles.
Pinch Pots: Sculpting Animal Figures
To sculpt an animal figure, begin with a sphere of earthen material roughly the size of your fist. Use the pinch method to create a basic pot shape. Thicker walls provide structural support for protruding features. Aim for a wall thickness of approximately 0.75 cm.
For ears, gently pull upwards on two sections of the lip of your pot. To shape the ears, use your fingers to compress and refine the form. Consider adding texture using a needle tool to mimic fur.
To construct legs, score and slip coils of material to the base of the pot. Blend the coils into the form using a rubber rib. The number of legs is variable. For stability, angle the legs outward slightly.
For the head, form a separate, smaller sphere. Score and slip it to the main body. Carve out eye sockets using a loop tool. Create a snout by gently pulling forward the material between the eyes.
Details such as tails, horns, or wings are added using the same score and slip method as the legs. Small details, like eyelashes, can be added using a fine needle tool. Dry the piece slowly under plastic to prevent cracking.
Consider a final textural treatment. Applying a wash of colored slip before firing accentuates details. Apply underglazes before bisque firing for vibrant, lasting colors. After bisque firing, apply a clear glaze for a smooth, durable finish.
Slab Construction: Making Geometric Planters
For sharply defined edges on your geometric planter, use 1/4″ thick slabs. A rolling pin and two parallel wooden strips guarantee uniform thickness. Compress the slabs immediately after rolling; a rib tool achieves this efficiently.
Accurately cut slab sections using a sharp fettling knife and a precise template. Templates can be constructed from cardboard or acetate. Minimize waste by carefully planning the layout of template pieces on the slab.
Assembly Methods for Durability
Score and slip all joining edges thoroughly. For added strength, consider reinforcing internal corners with small coils or fillets of plastic earth. A mitered corner provides the cleanest and strongest join.
Control drying speed by wrapping the newly constructed planter in plastic sheeting. This prevents differential shrinkage, reducing the risk of cracking. Rotate the planter periodically during drying.
Surface Enrichment and Finishing
Before bisque firing, refine the surface with a damp sponge. This removes imperfections and softens sharp edges. Apply texture using stamps or carving tools before the earthen material becomes leather-hard.
Consider adding drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. These should be created before firing to avoid fracturing the fired ceramic shell. Apply glaze to both the interior and exterior for weather resistance.
Advanced Form Adjustments
To create faceted forms, lightly score and bevel adjoining slab edges at the desired angle. Use a protractor to ensure accurate angles. After joining, gently tap along the seam to encourage bonding and minimize warping during firing.
Surface Decoration: Adding Texture with Stamps
For defined impressions, use leather-hard work. Moist work bends easily, blurring details.
Craft stamps from: bisque-fired terra cotta, found objects (buttons, textured fabric), or carved linoleum. Bisque provides durability; linoleum permits intricate designs.
Applying pressure evenly avoids uneven imprints. Use a rolling pin over larger stamps for consistent depth.
Consider layering stamps for complex patterns. Start with background textures, then add focal point motifs.
Colored slips enhance stamped textures. Apply slip after stamping; wipe away excess for a highlighted effect.
Experiment with resists. Apply wax resist over stamped areas before glazing to maintain contrasting colors.
To prevent sticking, lightly dust stamps with cornstarch or powdered alumina.
Rotate stamps strategically to eliminate repetition and create organic patterns on the formed piece.
For precise registration, use registration marks. Etch small guidelines near your design to ensure alignment when stamping multiple times.
Bisque-fired stamps can be stained with oxides to add depth and visual interest prior to using with slips or engobes.
Q&A
I’m completely new to working with clay. What are some really simple projects I could try to get started with hand building?
Welcome to the exciting realm of hand-built pottery! If you are just beginning, focus on projects that utilize basic techniques. A pinch pot is a fantastic place to begin. It involves forming a ball of clay and then using your thumb and fingers to pinch and rotate, creating a small bowl. Another easy project is a simple slab coaster. Roll out a flat piece of clay, cut out a shape (square, circle, etc.), and smooth the edges. You can also create a basic coil pot. Roll clay into long, thin coils, and then stack them on top of each other, attaching them together to build the walls of the pot. These projects allow you to practice the fundamental skills without feeling overwhelmed.
What kind of clay is suitable for hand building, and how do I store it properly to prevent it from drying out?
Several types of clay work great for hand building. Earthenware clay is a popular choice due to its workability and lower firing temperature. Stoneware clay is more durable after firing and can withstand higher temperatures, making it suitable for functional pieces. Porcelain clay is known for its smooth texture and translucent quality, but it can be more challenging to work with for beginners. As for storage, preventing the clay from drying is paramount. Wrap your clay tightly in plastic bags, making sure to exclude air. You can also store the wrapped clay in a sealed container, such as a plastic bin. If your clay does start to dry out, you can rehydrate it by adding water and wedging it properly.
What are some options for decorating my hand-built pottery before firing? I want to add some color and texture.
There are many ways to decorate pottery prior to firing! For adding color, consider using underglazes. These are applied to unfired clay and come in a wide range of colors. You can paint designs, create patterns, or even marbleize the clay. For texture, you can use various tools to stamp, carve, or impress designs into the clay surface. Found objects like leaves, shells, or textured fabrics can also be pressed into the clay to create unique effects. Adding slip (a watery clay mixture) is another option. You can use colored slips to paint designs or create raised textures. Remember that the clay needs to be properly dried before firing to prevent cracking.
I’ve made a few pieces, but they keep cracking during drying or firing. What could be causing this, and how can I prevent it?
Cracking is a common issue in pottery, and there are several reasons why it might occur. Uneven drying is a primary culprit. Ensure your piece dries slowly and evenly by covering it loosely with plastic. Avoid placing it in direct sunlight or near a heat source. Another factor is the clay itself. Certain clays are more prone to cracking than others, so research your clay’s properties. Also, be sure to wedge your clay thoroughly to remove air pockets, which can cause explosions during firing. Thick areas on your piece can also lead to cracking, so try to maintain consistent wall thickness. Finally, ensure your pieces are completely dry before firing. A bone-dry piece will be lighter in color and feel room temperature to the touch.